Little Falls to Pine River
It's hard to believe that we are on our last two days of riding. The day off in Little Falls, coming as it did after 5 fairly long days of riding sort of felt like a cumulation in its own right.
Because the next two days are 65 and 90 miles respectively, we are still getting up and out by 7:30 AM. This is always hardest the first day after a day off and at this point may of us are feeling pretty well mentally and physically depleted. We were also split between two hotels, which made the early morning coordination a bit more difficult and the general feeling of disconnection that much stronger. There is so much to mentally process on a ride like this from the sights, sounds, smells and noises of each day on the road, to the discoveries about yourself and other people. Physically we are all stronger but our bodies are drained with little or no time to build new muscle tissue and the impossibility of eating enough on a daily basis to replace calories burned without gorging to sickness is a constant factor. So it was a bit of relief to note that todays ride was going to include the last 35 miles on the Paul Bunyon bicycle trail and that getting through the first 30 miles was seemingly a straight shot with no complicated cues once we got out of the city of Little Falls.
Unfortunately the last five miles before the trail were under construction, so we were riding on rumble strips, road construction a very rough or non existent bike lane and shoulder plus finding our way from an unmarked state road to an unnamed local road ( this according to the cue sheet. ) As luck would have it, there was a most excellent coffee shop right before the start of the bike trail so we had a chance to take a break, regroup, connect with the SAG vehicle and relax a bit.
Babe the Blue Ox beside the Paul Bunyon Bike Trail
The trail itself was straight and smooth. Although still built in sections like the previous bike trails, the joints in this one were generally much smoother so it wasn't as painful on the hands and wrists. Once again the trail ran through mostly residential or suburb areas with lots of open space in between and lakes constantly on one side or the other.
along the trail
We passed through the town of Pequot Lakes at lunch time with only 8 miles left on the trail so we left the trail and found a place for lunch. The Laughing Loon, newly opened, emphasizes natural and local farm food. I had the most delicious local wild roast turkey on cranberry wild rice bread with a cranberry relish. It was one of those menus that everything looked so good that it was hard to make a decision. Everybody shared bites of everything, and being near the end of the days ride, as well as being almost at the end seemed to make us a little sillier than ususal and more inclined to prolong the luch and enjoy each others company. The owner even posted a photo of us on his facebook page.
The last 8 miles to the motel were uneventful except for the final cue which was "turn right off trail at Brookside Comfort Care Facility." Here's hoping that wasn't a portent of things to come.
here's your sign
Chef Lynne had arranged for the loan of a variety of grills so we had grilled vegetables, salmon and hanger steak along with the usual vegetarian, vegan, lactose and gluten intolerant variations and side dishes.
The two Dutch ladies who are continuing on self supported through Canada to Quebec to meet up with neices, had a "garage sale/dollar store sale" of various donated items and things they had acquired along the road, It was great fun to listen to them extoll the virtues of polident denture fixative (bought mistakenly as toothpaste by someone) and other silliness. The guide Carol donated her beat up straw hat which was snapped up after much argument over who was to get it.

Bernadette and the dollar store
Penny, on the right, our oldest rider in Carol the guides hat and looking quite pleased
I had a pair of bike shorts that had rubbed a hole in one leg against the buckle to my tool bag. I had hung onto them thinking I might mend them and wear them as trainer shorts and then remembered that I have shorts to spare. The end result was that the Dutch ladies got rid of a lot of miscellaneous stuff,lightened their load and made some cash to supplement their own along the way.
Pine River to Itasca State Park
Our final day of riding will culminate in arriving at the source of the Mississippi River. I decided that I wanted to finish the ride by riding with my sister. Since she rides fairly slow this meant taking a 40 mile jump in order to arrive about the same time as the other riders who were doing the full distance. Moira, although perfectly capable of doing the whole distance, probably faster than most of the other riders, opted to ride with Kris and myself so she took the jump as well.
The last 40 miles were densely green and gently rolling with very little traffic and a good shoulder. The temperature was in the mid 70's, there was a bit of cloud cover and we were mostly protected from the wind by the trees so it was a pretty perfect ride to finish up with.
vectoring in on the final miles
We found our way around to the North entrance to the park, fought ourselves through yet more road construction and pulled into the Visitors Center parking lot where we were greeted by our guides Carol and Lynne. They had the scene all scooped out and showed us where we could park the bikes, use the restrooms and get something to eat while we waited for the other bikers.
All this accomplished and still no other bikers in sight, I decided that I would wander down to the lake and see what there was to see. I crossed a bridge across the stream which had steps on each side going into the water so I walked across the Mississippi, all the while humming the chorus from an Indigo Girls song "The Mississippi's mighty and it starts in Minesota, at a place that you can walk across with three steps down."
"a place that you can walk across"
A bit further along the trail was the point where the shoreline of the lake was broken by the stream of the Mississippi. Next to it was a memorial pillar marking the lake as the headwaters and source of the Mississippi, along with it's length, amount of water carried etc.
me at the headwaters
Shauna had mentioned that her father and uncle, who live somewhat locally, along with wives and cousin were going to meet all of the riders at the source with champagne. They were already there, and recognizing my Woman Tours jersey, they came up, introduced themselves, congratulated me, and offered me champagne. I opted to wait until all of the riders were assembled but sat and chatted with them for a while before I returned to the visitors center to read the various informational plaques.
Within the next hour and a half the riders trickled in including the tail rider. Carol and Lynne played herding cats and managed to get everyone assembled and headed towards the lake. Several people brough along their bikes so that they could dip their front wheels into the water after having dipped the rear wheel in the river in New Orleans. I settled on scooping up a cup of water in my empty champagne cup and sort of baptised my bike with it when I got back to the bike racks further up the trail. There was much relief, a kind of awed sense of euphoria that we had all arrived, many tears, hugs and congratulations, and flowing champagne. A heavy session of photo taking ensued until everyone had gotten all of the photos they could or wanted.
my sister Kris and I with our feet in the headwaters of the Mississippi River after having ridden its length from New Orlean.
Moira celebrating with her bike
Moira, Kris and I celebrating our accomplishment
most of the riders and the guides celebrating at the headwaters
The final objective was to ride the 10 mile bike trail to the lodge where we were staying. It seemed longer than 10 miles and unnecessarily hilly but we got to the lodge and got our room assignments in various and scattered cabins.
The cabin I was in was extremely rustic and quiant but comfortable and with the basic amenities. The celebratory dinner was held at the lodge at our usual dinner hour. The dinner itself was interspersed with the four SAG drivers putting on an amusing skit, the Dutch Ladies doing a riding skit, several other riders doing amsuing skits or songs and with Moira giving us the "Selkirk Blessing" in Celtic.
The final "map meeting" of the journey was held after dinner as the guides explained the process for those of us shipping bikes, boxing bikes, riding into the airport to rent cars and or riding into the airport to fly out.
Lake Itasca to St.Paul/Minneapolis
As usual,my legs started moving at 5:00AM so I and everyone else were at the usual time to pack up luggage, haul it down to the lodge,and get breakfast. An anxious crowd gathered for the bus,some worried about making somewhat earlier flights and the rest resigned to longer waits but the bus driver took the situation in hand, designated below bus cargo bins according to airport terminal destinations, walked the bikes that were being boxed at the airport or being picked up and or taken home in rental cars onto the bus and "seated" them carefully so that there was room for the 20 riders and access to the bathroom.
bikes riding the bus
Abbey asleep among the bikes
There was much photo taking, hugging and waving goodbye. Lynne the chef brought aboard a bag of fruit and granola bars, a "bus style snack table" and then we were off. The first two hours or so of the ride were filled with animated chatter but as the time passed we became more and more reflective and quiet. Obviously the reentry decompression has started.
Based on previous cross country rides I have done, reentry can take anywhere from a couple of days to a couple of weeks, depending on how tired people are, when their bikes arrive and what else is going on in their lives. I know that I will be flashing back to specific sites and moments on the ride throughout the year.
Could I have done it better? probably. Could I have ridden more miles? possibly. Am I satisfied with the trip? most definitely especially considering what the last year has been like and the toll it has taken on me mentally and physically. Will I do another cross country tour? Most diefinitely!
the water guardian/ spirit of the Mississippi River