Lois (ninja biker and sous chef ) geared up and ready to rideThis morning at 6:30 AM as I was taking my luggage out to the van, the sky was still night dark and the stars were out in full. It is the first time that I have been able to see the Milky Way in all its’ glory. I had forgotten how beautiful the stars were in the clear desert air. 15 minutes later I came back to earth and remembered that I still had to load my luggage into the van, haul my bike down to the van and get back to the assembly room for a map meeting and breakfast by 7:00 .
The map meeting was brief and to the point. “The ground temperature is 32 degrees, the wind is from the north at 20-25 with gusts up to 40 expected. The wind chill makes it feel like 30 degrees or colder. Wear layers. The route is to go out of the state park, turn right on SR 118 and ride for 30 miles. There is a coffee shop in Alpine, stop and warm up, turn left on highway 90 and ride for 30 miles until the Gage hotel is on the left. See you at dinner.”
By the time we had finished breakfast, the temperature had dropped another 5 degrees and the wind was rising. Everybody dug extra layers out of their bike bags, grabbed their bikes and headed out. As we rode out of the park the sign cheerfully told us all to come back again.
The downhill to the Fort was cold enough that the tearing from my eyes was freezing on my cheeks, but the views down the canyons and out onto the plains through fringes of greening cottonwoods and aspens were spectacular. Fort Davis was just waking up as we passed through, and the occasional car or pedestrian waved and honked. I also noticed one of the tourist sights I had missed yesterday, a reptile place featuring the world's largest rattlesnake. I was only a little disappointed that it was still closed.
the reptile stop in Fort Davis
The next 20 miles continued cold because we were basically still in the shadow of the Davis mountains and the sun was not up high enough to add any warmth to the day. The nicest thing was that we continued to have a light tail wind and so the 20 miles to the first SAG stop went quickly.
the first wildflowers we have seen since early on in New Mexico
After the SAG stop we were in full sun riding across the prairie with the mountains to the north east of us being the result of limestone reefs left during the Cambrian period and the mountains to the south of us being the result of volcanic lava flows and up thrusts. The land in between was gently rolling and covered with dry grass which kept up a constant hissing and sighing in the wind.
In Alpine we all stopped off at the local coffee shop, recognizable this morning by the swarm of bicycles stacked against the pillars and planter of its sidewalk terrace and the windows of the adjacent stores. Whenever a bunch of us arrives at a shop or store, the workers always seem somewhat startled to see a mass of lycra clad women descending on them while striping off helmets, gloves, jackets, balaclavas, glasses and various other items of clothing. So far however, every small shop we have swarmed has taken it in good stride, often with the locals jumping up to lend a helping hand by clearing off tables, pouring water, and sometimes even taking orders. This morning was no different. Every empty space was soon filled with articles of shed clothing while we all lined up to place our orders. Today, the hottest going item was hot chocolate followed by cinnamon buns and coffee. We all integrated among the local and discussed the weather, the town and why were doing this ride with the locals while we ate and drank.
While we were there, a tall, stately obviously cowboy Texas gentleman arrived complete with boots, had and a suit and string tie. I had him figured as the mayor, or possibly the head of the chamber of commerce, but it turned out that he was Ted Gray, really a cowboy who had arrived in the town 70 years ago at the age of 15, been a cowboy, and purchased a large spread and made a lot of money. He modestly mentioned that several books had been written about him. The young ladies serving the coffee all came up a gave him hugs and cuddles. As we were mounting our bikes to head off, he walked to a Cadillac parked at the curb, got in and drove off, gracefully removing his hat and wishing us a safe ride. He was a true Texas gentleman.
The next 20 miles were into the wind, but it was not nearly as strong as it had been on the ride up to Fort Davis, so we were able to ride against it at a moderately comfortable pace. By the end of the next 20 miles, it had begun to swing around, and was a quartering tail wind, which was shoving us around from side to side although it was also pushing us from behind. The last 10 miles, still flat and going across the plains were the toughest part of the ride with side gusts strong enough to grab the bike and shove it around and head on gusts strong enough to make you feel like you had momentarily hit the wall. At times it felt like one of those mystery houses where the water runs uphill-" is this biker going forward, standing still, riding sideways at an angle, or is the road flat, going up hill or downhill, and what about the bike behind, leaning the other direction?"
our cowboy decor at the Hotel Gage
Finally we rode into Gage and found the Gage Hotel, the tallest and most substantial building that is on a 2 block main street facing the railroad station that was. The hotel itself dates back to the turn of the century in style, construction and appearance. It has a gracious lobby, fire place, flagstone floors, a stuffed buffalo head over the reception desk, a patio with a sort of a cruciform wall sculpture of bleached cattle skulls, endless nooks and crannies of patios with fountains, grass and willow trees along with ristras of chile peppers hanging against the walls and old saddle trees and rustic wooden benches. The newer part where we are staying resembles a New Mexico plaza with adobe style rooms set back under shady arcades around a central courtyard, with flowers and chiles on the walls, rustic wooden doors and shutters on the windows, and best of all, walls which cut off the wind which is currently howling around the buildings like a demon.
a wall sculpture of cattle skulls in the restaurant patio
It’s supposed to be even windier tomorrow. Here’s hoping it continues to blow from the north east as we will be traveling south west.
the patio and arcade around the rooms, and an angel gateway leading back to the original old hotel.
So tonight, as I am sitting in the hotel lobby, Robins' new wheels arrive via Fed Ex from California. She has been sagging for the last two rides because both of her wheels were so shoddy that they were exploding tires left and right. In a total of 18 riding days s9 flats, sometimes several in one day. She Michelle and her buddy Susan drove into Fort Davis yesterday specifically to find internet so that they could order her new wheels for delivery today. The word of arrival spread like wild fire around the hotel and before she had even finished signing the Fed Ex sheet, everyone had assembled to admire them. The reception took all our comments about "fondling the wheels" and "yes it has rim tape because you can't see its nipples" all in puzzled good humor with only a minimal of eye rolling.
Since we had also mobbed the local coffe shop/eatery this afternoon as we got in looking for soup, coffee and hot chocolate, I have no doubt that the "day those women bike riders came to town and stayed at the Gage" will be a hot item of gossip around town for several days to come.
Today's Stats
ride 59.57
ride time 4:16
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